We have drawn and manufacture quality children's shoes since 1870. A know-how transmitted from generation to generation. From the first sketches to the finishing, a model requires more than 200 stages of different achievements. Sometimes unsuspected, always demanding. We wanted to share a bit of our passion for this exceptional job.
Manufacturing secrets
The drawing on form
It all starts with the expertise of the form. The primary idea of the shoe should be materialized in the form of a volume. This step is essential and extremely precise. The width of the fitting, the volume of the coat and the degree of front succession are as many characteristics to take into account: to the millimeter! Then, a plastic shell is molded on the shape to allow the modeling patronner to draw the rod.
From the sketch provided by the style office, the employer will reproduce the stem on the shape using a fine graphite pencil. Years of experiences are necessary to acquire the precision required by drawing on form. The shoe will be identical in every way the result obtained, in the smallest detail.
The patronage
An adhesive canvas is applied to the shape. It will make it possible to transpose all the elements of the stem by transparency. Taken carefully, the canvas is then applied in flat on cardboard. After a precise cutting of each encroachment, the pattern of the shoe is obtained.
The cutout
The elements obtained will allow the cutter to cut each piece of leather that composes the shoe rod. This includes interior linings. After making the pattern for a given size, called the base, the dimensions of the parts necessary for the making of the adjacent sizes are obtained by graduation. Several close bases are essential for the realization of a range of sizes, the foot morphology evolving enormously the first years. Each of these bases will be the subject of a drawing on form and a patronage. When the first sample is assembled, several fittings are carried out to control the shape of the model and the accuracy of its fit. We are talking about "development". The employer will make any changes to the basic pattern.
Towards the bite and assembly
To summarize these various stages: the idea is materialized in shape, on which the employer draws the rod. From this drawing is made a pattern from which all the pieces of the stem are cut. In parallel, the first of cleanliness is also prepared. By adding the other elements that can compose the model, such as the buttress and the tip (rigid parts which are arranged respectively at the heel and at the front of the shoe between the lining and the leather) or the closing elements (Zip, loop, eyelets ...), the model is ready for the bite and assembly.
All the distinct elements that make up the shoe are prepared, it now remains to assemble them to each other. The stem is the first part to be built. A final step of preparation is then necessary for leather parts which must accommodate a specific flange or lacing.
The bite
The pieces of leather, exterior and liners, which make up the stem are assembled in the bite workshop. The bite requires great dexterity and a lot of precision in each gesture of the pricker to guarantee a quality result. The stem is then positioned on a plastic shape, ready for assembly.
The assembly
The assembly consists in assembling the rod and the first assembly. There are different types of assembly, each with its particular characteristics depending on the way the stem and the first are assembled.
In parentheses
From the bite to the assembly is linked a multitude of operations that we have not mentioned. Yet each of them has a place required within the manufacturing process. For example, once the stem and the lining is assembled, all the slices are dyed by hand, with a brush, using a mixture of natural dyes similar to the color of the leather. This meticulous attention paid to the details fully contributes to the quality of a product.
Construction
The last manufacturing step is to assemble the wear sole, or walking sole, to the Tige-Prémière ensemble which has just been formed. In the case of a traditional assembly, the wear sole is fixed to the stem by a collage process. We are talking about united construction. This requires a lot of rigor and preparation upstream so as to allow a perfect sole-stem link. Carding, for example, is an operation which consists in slightly sanding the underside of the first before the oven to promote the adhesion of the glue.
The first assembly is maintained on the shape by adhesive tapes. The rod then marrys the shape and cover this first assembly. The whole is then hot glued. Once cooled, this assembly is either laid or carded according to the need. An action to fill with leather or cork complement this operation in order to make the whole homogeneous. Then, the sole and the first are glued then put to rest in order to release the solvents. Finally, these two elements are assembled and the glue reactivated and then in a hurry
Finishing
The pair is then cleaned and pampered by hand depending on the final aspect that we want to give to the leather. All of these different treatment operations are called finishing or finish.
Box
The finish made, the pair of shoes is meticulously controlled to verify that it has no manufacturing defect. Then, it is carefully wrapped in a tissue paper and boxing. Thus sealing the more than 200 stages which will have been necessary for its manufacture.